I have never been to a place that transforms itself from daytime to night as much as Kapit in Sarawak, hence my borrowing of the Arctic Monkeys wording They say it changes when the sun goes down!
But unlike in the song, Kapit goes from an hustling little city where the pavements are crowded and you are likely to be Knocked over by a car if you are not careful, to one that goes dead at 7pm.
After this time the streets are deserted and only two Chinese restaurants remain open, one at each end of town.
Now I mentioned that the roads in Kapit are busy, what is amazing about this is that the place is only reachable by river!
They need to deliver cars by ferry, but for the scooters, people tend to just carry them on their shoulders and use normal transport boats (these take three hours and cost 30 MYR from Sibu to Kapit).
My plan was to visit some longhouses from Kapit, but when I was here I felt a tad tired, so just chilled out for a few days and watched the world go by. There were lots of Longhouses to be seen from the boat along the Rejang river and nowadays most of them seem to have all mod cons. Guess I needed to be here a long time ago, that said as the Iban people of the area were head hunters then perhaps it is a better time to visit nowadays.